East Java: more than just Bromo, Ijen and Sampoerna kretek

THE last time I set foot in Indonesia was in 2016. I was invited by the Indonesian government to promote Komodo Island as a leading scuba diving destination in the Southeast Asia region.

But four years later in 2020, the Covid-19 virus restricted everyone's travels, leaving the world's leading tourist locations deserted, including Indonesia.

Two years after the global catastrophe, various tourist destinations have opened up to the delight of both domestic and foreign tourists.

Indonesia does not want to be left out. Bali became the first destination to be opened to foreign tourists. Albeit with an endemic status that allowed tourists to roam free without being bound by strict health protocols.

But Indonesia is not just Bali. The archipelago republic with an area of ​​1.9 million square kilometres has many draws to offer for those who want to travel.

Among the highlights is East Java, which offers stunning mountains, sea, savannah and artificial tourism locations.

The Juanda International Airport in Surabaya has been operational from March this year as a gateway to the hottest spots in East Java.

For those who frequent East Java, the Bromo volcano and the Ijen crater are major pulls. The capital Surabaya, the second-largest city in Indonesia, offers culinary experiences and exciting shopping malls. It is also home to the headquarters of leading kretek cigarette maker Sampoerna.

But in fact, East Java offers more captivating places that are sure to provide a valuable and memorable experience in the region inhabited by more than 37 million people.

A familiarisation trip programme organised by the Consulate General of Republic of Indonesia (KJRI) in Penang allows Malaysian journalists to explore many tourist locations in East Java, starting in the city of Surabaya to the easternmost largest district of Java, Banyuwangi.

But what is most exciting during the visit is the Kota Batu district which is rarely on the map for Malaysian tourists.

Although our programme also involves visits to the Bromo volcano and the city of Banyuwangi, being in Kota Batu for just one night is not enough.

After completing the documentation and inspection process at Juanda International Airport – yes, Surabaya is still in the pandemic phase but has opened its doors to foreign tourists – we were taken to a restaurant serving authentic Surabaya food, nasi Rawon, before heading to Kota Batu.

If in Malaysia, those in Sarawak often enjoy this dish because many Indonesians work there, but in Surabaya, this singular authentic food is everywhere.

What was most interesting was that we were taken to a restaurant called Rawon Setan (Satan Rawon).

Yes, various conjectures were playing in my mind trying to interpret the meaning behind this restaurant's name.

Rawon is a dark meat soup that uses kepayang, or keluak fruit, as the main ingredient and is eaten with hot white rice and sambal, bean sprouts, and tempe.

In any case, the guess that Rawon Setan was so named due to the hot sambal being called 'satan' is incorrect, even though the sambal provided is spicy for the regular 'tongue'.

According to the restaurant workers, the name Rawon Setan came up during the opening. It was because many visitors liked to eat from late at night until the morning – which describes the ‘satan’ aspect.

Anyway, Rawon Setan is unique where apart from the restaurant being open from midnight until dawn, the pieces of meat served are also large and tender. While the soup looks thick and viscous, it is still comfortable to consume when served hot.

Enough of Rawon Setan, because our adventure is just beginning. The journey continued to Kota Batu, one of the tourist districts that received less attention from Malaysians.

Interestingly in Kota Batu alone, you would have to spend more than a week checking out the attractions.

With 24 must-visit areas including nature tourism, religion, culture and special interests, Kota Batu will not disappoint.

Kota Batu, which is located on the southern slope of Mount Arjuno-Welirang, was once a resting place for the royal family due to the cool air conditions in the mountains. The city also keeps a tourist secret that many overlook – the apple orchards.

Nicknamed the Little Swiss City, this is where visitors can visit the apple orchards scattered around the district of Malang, so it feels like being in Europe.

Uniquely, apart from visiting, visitors can pick fresh, ripe apples. They can also take home four varieties of apples including Manalagi, Anna, Rome Beauty and Greensmith.

According to the apple growers there, every visitor who wants to pick and eat apples will be charged around Rp30,000 to Rp40,000 per person (RM9 to RM12 per person) depending on the location of the farm.

If in Malaysia, Cameron Highlands is famous for strawberry picking – so much so that it is used as other cooking ingredients. Apples in Malang are also used as other cooking ingredients including dodol.

Surely many are wondering, how can apples grow in Kota Batu away from the cold temperatures because Indonesia does not have four seasons.

According to history, the apples in Kota Batu are originally from the Malus sieversii species brought by the Dutch to Indonesia around 1930s from Australia and planted in Tebo Pujon Village in Malang.

Since then, its cultivation has grown to replace citrus crops damaged by disease attacks.

However, in the beginning, the apples that were planted, even though they grew well, did not bear fruit.

The farmers thought about what went wrong. After a long search, they realised that Indonesia does not have autumn. In its native region, after autumn is the time when the apple trees begin to produce flowers and fruit.

As a result of an agreement between farmers and the government, they began to prune the leaves of apple trees to mimic the process of deciduous leaves which eventually proved successful.

Currently, Kota Batu has more than 3 million apple trees that produce more than 150,000 tonnes of Apel Batu, a Kota Batu apple brand that is marketed in Indonesia alone.

Apart from the apple orchard, being in Kota Batu also gives us the chance to visit the Muzium Angkut (Transport Museum). It is a centre for vintage vehicle collections from around the world operated by Jatim Park Group.

The largest transportation museum in the Southeast Asian region is a must-visit for all vehicle enthusiasts. This is where the collection of 300 leading vintage and modern vehicles from around the world, as well as vehicles used by Indonesian government agencies, are on display.

Many vehicles here were initially owned by the collectors and loaned to Muzium Angkut but after assessing visitors' response, Jatim Park Group had bought over the vehicles from the owners.

Besides static exhibits, the museum also offers shows that use a small portion of the vintage vehicles on display. And yes, most of the vintage cars available are still usable and roadworthy.

In front of Muzium Angkut, there is Pasar Apung (floating market) which offers interesting and delicious culinary options from East Java. Unfortunately, we did not have time for a visit as we had to rush to Arjuna Wiwaha's epic dance drama show which is only held every full moon.

The dance drama played in the open amphitheatre in Kota Batu was adapted from the work of Mpu Kanwa. He was a writer and poet of the Kahuripan Kingdom in East Java from 1019 to 1042 AD.

The variety of art combined with energetic dance movements supported by vibrant lighting and sound system make this Arjuna Wiwaha dance drama an extraordinary performance.

The energetic and unique movements will last for three hours under the rays of the full moon. It provides an understanding of the epic storytelling and history of East Java.

In fact, there is more to tell about this trip to Kota Batu, and East Java as a whole – to do so in one article is impossible.

To find out more in preparation for a trip to Indonesia, prospective tourists can visit the Wonderful Indonesia portal at www.indonesia.travel. What's important is to make sure you are fully vaccinated. – The Vibes, June 25, 2022

*This familiarisation trip to East Java was sponsored by the Consulate General of Republic of Indonesia in Penang and the Culture, Tourism and International Relations Division, East Java Provincial Government